Lots of photos today, and although I'm tempted it's for that reason (i.e. formatting) that I'm writing in English (also a 7h30 train tomorrow morning).
Vieux Québec - the old neighbourhood - is utterly gorgeous, and it would be easy to spend all of a stay here. There are crooked rows all over the place, little turnarounds, cobblestone streets, and amazing lookouts. The site was chosen because it is so high up, meaning that the cliff faces on three of its four sides made it difficult to attack. I toured the Château Frontenac, and finally learned why there are random 'Château's scattered across the country - it was the idea of the CPR's William van Horne to build luxury hotels at major train destinations. To give an idea of scale, in the early 20th century a maid working there earned about $2-2.5 a month, and for one night at the hotel the price was around $1. I saw a free show by Cirque du Soleil! And I've been walking - for hours and hours and hours on end. It's really, really beautiful.
But today I decided I wanted to see the world outside the walls of the old city, where most people actually live and the neighbourhoods. Just after I ventured away from the main business district, I paused to consider taking a photo and ended up talking with Jean Dominique:
Jean Dominique has ancestry stretching back to when Champlain arrived at Québec, and was kind enough to give me a 5 hour walking tour and crash course in architectural styles. He also showed me the park along the stretch of the river, explained the effects it's having with regards to gentrification in the nearby neighbourhoods, and showed me the student district where we stopped for a bite to eat after all that walking and the food was amazing. Old Québec has been so expensive; I've heard so much about the food here but I've been surviving off croissant-based meals (plain in the morning, takeout sandwiches for lunch) because I can't afford $15 salads!
I ordered a tartare taster, which is pretty much the Québécois equivalent of sushi - it's raw meats with spices. The three types were beef, salmon, and tuna, and were so good. Because the place was actually a soup place, I also got a chocolate soup afterwards! It was ridiculously tasty, with raspberries, strawberries, peanuts, mint, and oddly enough tapioca bubbles.
I tried to remember as much as possible from the tour to share with you, and for myself as well since it was really educational! So, some of the major things:
-French style roofs are angular
-American style roofs are (approximately) arc-shaped, kind of like barns (sort of)
-Victorian style houses are detailed and often have towers
-Québécois style roofs are like American ones, but flatten out at the bottom so that the snow doesn't fall off. This also provides room for a galerie (porch) which the Québécois really like (This is true. In Alma almost every house had a porch, and even the apartments had little balconies).
-The general class segregation in Québec was such that rich people lived higher up
-In the lower city, there were 3 fires which eventually led to rules to prevent the spread between houses. An example of this is an extended sidewall between adjacent houses.
-The richer the house owner, the larger and more regular the foundation stones were
-A lot of higher levels fell during the 1988 earthquake, and the different brickwork can be seen where it was repaired
-The neighbourhoods are named for the old parishes of the region. These don't always match up with municipal districts, and in fact when the local communities were amalgamated, one was forgotten and is now a legally separate community within the city!
I could keep going for a while about this! But it's not really an architecture blog. :P Other random thing that I learned: I knew about Simons, but there is another department store in Québec called La Liberté, and these two are essentially the equivalent of Eaton's...except they're not bankrupt. La Liberté used to sponsor the Québec Christmas Parade, and Simons gave the fountain in front of the provincial government buildings as a gift to the province for being loyal customers (picture here)
Well, it's time to head off to bed so that I'm actually up in time for my train tomorrow morning. Thankfully, it's going to be a heck of a lot easier going down the hill then going up it (and with my luggage the travel time was twice what Google predicted, I have been getting my exercise here! It's good). Looking forward to seeing my cousins, and then I'll be back home in a few days...!
P.S. It has been pointed out to me that there are no actual pictures of me (mainly because I'm usually behind the camera). So to oblige, here is a photo of me and Stephanie after our flute duo at the final concert! We played Ave Maria. :)
Vieux Québec - the old neighbourhood - is utterly gorgeous, and it would be easy to spend all of a stay here. There are crooked rows all over the place, little turnarounds, cobblestone streets, and amazing lookouts. The site was chosen because it is so high up, meaning that the cliff faces on three of its four sides made it difficult to attack. I toured the Château Frontenac, and finally learned why there are random 'Château's scattered across the country - it was the idea of the CPR's William van Horne to build luxury hotels at major train destinations. To give an idea of scale, in the early 20th century a maid working there earned about $2-2.5 a month, and for one night at the hotel the price was around $1. I saw a free show by Cirque du Soleil! And I've been walking - for hours and hours and hours on end. It's really, really beautiful.
Jean Dominique has ancestry stretching back to when Champlain arrived at Québec, and was kind enough to give me a 5 hour walking tour and crash course in architectural styles. He also showed me the park along the stretch of the river, explained the effects it's having with regards to gentrification in the nearby neighbourhoods, and showed me the student district where we stopped for a bite to eat after all that walking and the food was amazing. Old Québec has been so expensive; I've heard so much about the food here but I've been surviving off croissant-based meals (plain in the morning, takeout sandwiches for lunch) because I can't afford $15 salads!
I ordered a tartare taster, which is pretty much the Québécois equivalent of sushi - it's raw meats with spices. The three types were beef, salmon, and tuna, and were so good. Because the place was actually a soup place, I also got a chocolate soup afterwards! It was ridiculously tasty, with raspberries, strawberries, peanuts, mint, and oddly enough tapioca bubbles.
I tried to remember as much as possible from the tour to share with you, and for myself as well since it was really educational! So, some of the major things:
-French style roofs are angular
-American style roofs are (approximately) arc-shaped, kind of like barns (sort of)
-Victorian style houses are detailed and often have towers
-Québécois style roofs are like American ones, but flatten out at the bottom so that the snow doesn't fall off. This also provides room for a galerie (porch) which the Québécois really like (This is true. In Alma almost every house had a porch, and even the apartments had little balconies).
-The general class segregation in Québec was such that rich people lived higher up
-In the lower city, there were 3 fires which eventually led to rules to prevent the spread between houses. An example of this is an extended sidewall between adjacent houses.
-The richer the house owner, the larger and more regular the foundation stones were
-A lot of higher levels fell during the 1988 earthquake, and the different brickwork can be seen where it was repaired
-The neighbourhoods are named for the old parishes of the region. These don't always match up with municipal districts, and in fact when the local communities were amalgamated, one was forgotten and is now a legally separate community within the city!
I could keep going for a while about this! But it's not really an architecture blog. :P Other random thing that I learned: I knew about Simons, but there is another department store in Québec called La Liberté, and these two are essentially the equivalent of Eaton's...except they're not bankrupt. La Liberté used to sponsor the Québec Christmas Parade, and Simons gave the fountain in front of the provincial government buildings as a gift to the province for being loyal customers (picture here)
Well, it's time to head off to bed so that I'm actually up in time for my train tomorrow morning. Thankfully, it's going to be a heck of a lot easier going down the hill then going up it (and with my luggage the travel time was twice what Google predicted, I have been getting my exercise here! It's good). Looking forward to seeing my cousins, and then I'll be back home in a few days...!
P.S. It has been pointed out to me that there are no actual pictures of me (mainly because I'm usually behind the camera). So to oblige, here is a photo of me and Stephanie after our flute duo at the final concert! We played Ave Maria. :)
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